Jaffa.—The Careless Camel.—Bible Characters who lived in Jaffa.—Jonah's Temptation.—On the Way to the Holy City.—An Arab and his Plow.—Ramleh.—Lydda in the Distance.—Leprous People Begging.—Leprous People of Bible Times.—Camp-fire in the Cave.—Jerusalem.—Our Room.—Solomon's Disobedience.—Tower of David.—The Stubborn Donkey.—Mohammedan Cemetery.—Mount of Olives.
affa is built upon a hillside facing the sea, and the first glimpse of the flat-roofed stone houses, standing out as they did in the clear sunlight, is apt to cause one to pronounce the city beautiful; but wait until a walk through the narrow, dirty streets is taken, and such a thought as beautiful vanishes from the mind. A light shower of rain had fallen just before we arrived there; the filthy condition of the city was quite disagreeable, and it took away the desire to tarry long there.
While leisurely walking through one of the principal streets and feeling we were in no particular danger, except that of slipping down, we heard the guide call out, "Watch out!" I looked up, and to my surprise saw a camel ld with orange boxes. The animal was very close to me, and a knock over the head seemed the next thing, for the boxes hung down, one on each side of him, and spread half way over the street. I thought quickly, and acted immediately, which means that I stooped down and the ld orange boxes passed over my head. That act saved me from being walked over by the great, clumsy animal. That event did not discourage us, so we walked on and on.
We saw such odd looking little stores, dark and dirty. If a person desired to make a purchase it was done by standing out on the street and talking to the merchant who sat upon the floor of his store with legs crossed. What would you think if you saw shoemakers, blacksmiths and barbers all engaged in their special line of work, sitting upon the streets working with a will? That was no uncommon sight, but always an amusing one to us.
Oranges and lemons were plentiful in Jaffa, for there were several very large orchards near the city. We were there in the season to see the beautiful yellow fruit on the trees, and then to enjoy eating some of it. Florida oranges are fine, but I believe the Jaffa oranges are sweeter and more finely flavored.
But I must not spend too much time in telling you what we saw, for we are now in the Holy Land, and that brings to my mind the Bible characters who at one time walked those streets; for you know we are now writing about a very, very old city. Probably you can call to mind some of the people who lived there in Bible times, for I'm sure you have been studying about them in Sunday school.
You remember "Simon a tanner" who lived in Jaffa? Well, his house is pointed out to strangers, and is now being used as a mosque (house of worship). And you know Peter went on the housetop to pray. So in these days people go up on the top of that house and pray. Guides tell you a good many things in the course of a day, and one cannot always believe what they say. In all probability the location of this house is the same as the one which Simon lived in; but we are doubtful about the house.
I presume every girl and boy knows something about "Tabitha" or "Dorcas." She also lived in Jaffa; and you know we read she "was full of good works, and almsdeeds." One day she took sick and died, and her body was prepared for the tomb. Peter was not very many miles away, so he was sent for. Upon his arrival he was taken to the upper room where the lifeless body of Dorcas lay. Can you imagine the great sorrow of the people? "All the widows stood by him weeping and showing the coats and garments which Dorcas made while she was with them." And then what did Peter do? Why, he performed a great miracle, for he brought the good woman back to life again. That was a happy time, and there was real joy in that house. Everybody in Jaffa heard of Tabitha's sickness, death and restoration to life, "and many believed in the Lord."
Nineveh was a very wicked city, and the Lord was greatly concerned about it; so he called a man by the name of Jonah to go there and preach to the people. This man did not want to go, for no doubt he thought the work would be too hard; so he started to a place of his own choosing, and went to Jaffa, took ship there for Tarshish, paid the fare, went down in the ship and went to sleep. Do you believe he was altogether happy? We shall see by and by.
The Lord knew what Jonah was doing, and what was in his mind too, for you know nothing can be hid from the Lord, no matter how hard one tries. And this man found that out to his sorrow, for pretty soon "the Lord sent out a great wind into the sea, and there was a mighty tempest in the sea, so that the ship was like to be broken," and the sailors were dreadfully scared; but Jonah knew nothing about it, for he was fast asleep. As the storm grew in strength the seamen became more and more alarmed, and finally they called out, "Arise, call upon thy God." By this time the poor man was sure he was the cause of the stormy voyage. So Jonah said, "Take me up, and cast me forth into the sea." But they did not want to treat their passengers so unkindly; so they rowed and rowed, to see if they could possibly get to land with him and all be saved. But there was no use trying; the sea was too wild. Then they tried another plan; they called upon the Lord,—and very pitifully, too,—but that failed. "So they took up Jonah and cast him forth into the sea; and the sea ceased from her raging."
Now poor Jonah was in the water; but the Lord was not going to let him perish, so he prepared a great fish which swallowed him. Still the Lord was with him; and while in the great fish Jonah thought and "prayed unto the Lord his God." The Lord hears prayers and answers them if he thinks best; so this time poor Jonah's prayer was answered, and "the Lord spake unto the fish, and it vomited out Jonah upon the land." After that the Lord called him the second time, and this time he obeyed. He went and preached in Nineveh, and "the people of Nineveh believed God."
When Solomon decided to build a house for the Lord he sent word to "Hiram, king of Tyre," to send to him cunning workmen and also "cedar trees, fir trees, and algum trees out of Lebanon." The king was pleased to do as Solomon bade him, and as soon as it was possible sent a workman who was qualified to work in anything they saw proper to put him to. The timber was sent "in floats by sea to Joppa," and from there it was carried up to the city of Jerusalem, where the temple was to be built.
You will see by the instances which I have been giving that Jaffa must be an interesting place to visit, especially for those who love the Bible and its teachings. But our minds were turned toward the city of Jerusalem, and as soon as arrangements were made we started thitherward.
There were no signs of a railrbetween the two cities then; so we had the privilege of choosing for ourselves whether we should take the trip in a carriage or on horseback. Our party preferred the carriage, thinking it to be the easier way of traveling over a rough, stony country.
Now the vehicle the guide called a carriage proved to be a very, very uncomfortable thing to ride in. At home it would have been called a covered spring wagon, and a very poor one at that. Sometimes we wondered whether it really had springs at all. But the guide called it a carriage, and we followed his example and called it a carriage too.
Jerusalem is between thirty and forty miles from Jaffa, and that meant an all day ride for us; and with the hope of reaching our destination that night we started. The morning was beautiful and the air fresh and bracing, so the change from sea to land travel was thoroughly enjoyed. Here and there along the rwere cypress and sycamore trees, and occasionally an orange grove was passed. The sweet odor of the orange blossoms filled the air, and the perfume came to us while passing along. The beautiful yellow fruit could be seen hanging on the trees, and though it was too far away for us to touch, yet it was not too far to be admired.
There were many beautiful flowers growing along the highway, which seemed to be bowing a welcome to us. Our desire to pluck them was very great, but we rode on, finding it impossible to stop to gratify the desire, as the further we rode the more flowers we saw.
There were strange things along the way which interested us greatly. For instance, farmers were plowing their fields, and they had the oddest looking plows you ever saw. I'm not sure I shall be able to describe them; but you may imagine how they look when I tell you that a piece of wood, perhaps three feet long, is sharpened at one end, and at the other end a crosspiece is attached, which serves as handle. Now the sharpened end of the stick is the part which turns up the soil; and the furrows were not very deep, you may be sure. My husband had a desire to try plowing with an Arabic plow, so the first opportunity which was offered he put his hand to the plow and had a trial of it. The old Arab stood by, looking very much amused at the American's awkward attempt. The new plowman felt as though he would not like to make his living that way, so tarried but a little while.
Oxen, horses, donkeys and camels were used to draw the plows. Many times we saw a horse and an ox, or a horse and a donkey hitched together. But a great, tall, awkward camel seemed to be one of the strangest sights,—a great big camel, a little plow, and way behind all a poor little man. But you can imagine how it looked, and I'll leave you to smile over the thought of a camel being hitched to a little one-handled plow.
After riding ten miles we stopped for luncheon at a small village called Ramleh. A great tall square tower stands near the village, and almost every stranger climbs to the top of it; for from it may be seen the country round about. The steps show that many feet have trodden upon them, and the walls are badly cracked, showing to us that age was on its side. The village of Lydda, six miles distant, could be plainly seen from the top of the tower, and it seemed hardly possible that one's eyes could take in such a wide stretch of country at one glance.
You remember Lydda was the little village where Peter visited some of the saints. There he found a man by the name of neas who had been in bed eight years with palsy. "And Peter said unto him, neas, Jesus Christ maketh thee whole; arise, and make thy bed. And he arose immediately. And all that dwelt at Lydda and Saron saw him, and turned to the Lord."
This is also the little town to which two men were sent to find Peter after the death of Dorcas. You will see that from now on there will be very few miles passed over which will not have Bible history connected with them; and illustrations of Scripture may be gathered at almost every point.
Sitting by the ride were a number of leprous people, both men and women. Now leprosy is a disease of the skin, and it eats away the flesh very much as does cancer; it is loathsome and incurable. According to law, every person afflicted with that disease must leave home and friends and live by himself, or with others who are suffering in the same manner.
When the people saw us every one of them arose and commenced begging. Arms with flesh eaten off and hands which were fingerless were held up to excite our sympathy. Oh, how horrible! for in some cases the flesh had been eaten away from the elbow to the wrist; the feet were without toes, and the faces in a distressing condition. The disease had gone to the lungs of some, for they coughed hard. The sight was touching, and our hearts ached for them. Small wooden pails were used to carry the money which was thrown them by benevolent people. This money was used in buying the necessaries of life for the whole company, for they lived together as one family among the ruins of old houses outside of the city, as they are not allowed to come inside of any city.
There are many leprous persons spoken of in the Bible, and I shall mention a few of them. First, then, was Miriam, the sister of Aaron and Moses. One day she and Aaron spoke against Moses, which fact displeased the Lord; and as a punishment to Miriam she "became leprous, white as snow." The brothers felt dreadfully bad to know of their sister's affliction. "And Moses cried unto the Lord saying, Heal her now, O God, I beseech thee." After having seen people with leprosy once you may not expect soon to be rid of the sickening sight, for it will surely remain in your mind. And now, while writing this to you, the sight of those poor creatures comes to me, and I do not wonder that Moses pleaded for the healing of Miriam.
Naaman, you remember, was a great man; but he had the leprosy. Now this man's wife had a little captive maiden working for her, who seemed greatly interested in the leprous man; so one time the maiden said to her mistress, "Would God my lord were with the prophet that is in Samaria; for he would recover him of the leprosy." Some one told the great man what the little maiden had said; so the king of Syria sent a letter to the king of Israel, and with it sent many pieces of silver and ever so many pieces of gold, and also several changes of raiment.
When the king of Israel received and read the letter, he could not understand why it had been sent to him, and concluded that the king of Syria wanted to quarrel with him. He was therefore very much displeased.
Elisha, the man of God, heard of the letter and knew what it meant; so he sent to the king, saying, "Wherefore hast thou rent thy clothes? Let him come to me, and he shall know that there is a prophet in Israel. So Naaman came with his horses and chariots and stood at the door of the house of Elisha." Well, Elisha told Naaman what he should do to be made whole; but the great man grew very angry and went away in a rage. Naaman's servant said, "My father, if the prophet had bid thee do some great thing, wouldst thou not have done it? How much rather then, when he saith to thee, Wash and be clean?"
After this Naaman did as Elisha had directed, and he was made clean of the dreadful, humiliating disease. The little captive maiden was far from home and friends, and no doubt was sad many times because she could not see her mother and father; yet, in her loneliness, she did not forget to let her light shine for good; she was thoughtful of those around her, and because of her thoughtfulness Naaman was brought to visit the prophet, and then to know of the God who rules over all.
Gehazi was the servant of Elisha. He did wrong by asking Naaman to give something for his healing, which he knew was not in accordance with the desire of Elisha's heart. Then, when questioned about the matter, he told an untruth, and the doom pronounced upon Gehazi was this: "The leprosy therefore of Namann shall cleave unto thee, and unto thy seed for ever. And he went out from his presence a leper as white as snow." The Lord does not countenance wickedness in any shape or form, and punishment is in store for all who do wickedly.
Children, are you ever tempted to be untruthful? Oh, be careful! Remember the Lord knows all; he hears you and sees everything you do. When you do wickedly it grieves him, and is it right for you to grieve the best friend you have? No, no.
It was late in the afternoon when we left Ramleh, so we rode only a few hours before daylight disappeared. Riding was not very pleasant after dark, for the rover the mountains was rough and stony.
After traveling several miles, a small village was reached, where we rested a short time. There is an inn or lodging place at this point, and many persons stop there all night. It was a dirty looking place, for the lower part of the house was used as a stable for horses. Some travelers prefer camping out and I'm pretty sure I would rather camp out than sleep in such a place as that; but our intentions were to sleep in Jerusalem that night, and that being the case we rested but a short time.
Our guide was unusually slow in having the horses brought up, so a few of us walked on up the mountain. We had walked but a short distance when dark clouds were seen overhead; by and by rain came down, and a thorough drenching seemed in store for us. Shelter was found, however, under the wide-spreading branches of an olive tree, and there we stood until, to our sorrow, it began to leak, and the water commenced dropping upon us uncomfortably fast. But by this time a rumbling noise was heard in the distance, and our carriage came in sight. In a very little while after we were seated in it, about as uncomfortably as could be imagined. Some of the party had walked farther on, so were not taken in at this point. The darkness seemed more dense now and the rdreadfully bad. Away in the distance a bright light was seen, and men could be seen moving about quite lively before their camp-fire.
Highway robbers came into our mind, but there was not time to harbor such thoughts long, for on getting a little closer to them we found two of our traveling companions who had gone into a cave for shelter from the rain. For amusement and warmth they had, Arab like, built a fire. The men were full of fun, and their antics were quite grotesque. You can scarcely imagine how funny they did look, dancing before the blazing fire. Of course all laughed, for we could not help ourselves. Their shelter from the rain was a good one, and there was no danger of its leaking either. All were settled in the carriage at last, so we drove on.
As we neared the top of the mountain another camp-fire was seen, but this time it was that of a Greek caravan which had stopped for the night. There were ever so many men, camels and donkeys, and the bright fire looked quite cheerful, for we were pretty well chilled; but we did not stop, for if Jerusalem was to be reached that night it was necessary for us to keep moving.
The r continued bad, very bad. Many places there were great, deep gullies washed out; the wagon wheels dropped into them with a thud, and at times it seemed as though the wagon would surely go over. Some of the party concluded to try walking, that they might keep warm—a good thing for them to do. I'm very sure the footmen had a more pleasant time than we who were riding. At times we were almost thrown from our seats by the jolting, and I clung to the back of the seat in front of me. I did not hesitate to pronounce it the worst ride which I had ever taken. Oh, how we did wish for starlight or, better still, moonlight; but neither stars nor moon could be seen. The guide and drivers felt the need of refreshments very often, and when another coffeehouse was reached they stopped while we all waited, sitting in the wagon, trying to be patient. After all, the men did us a favor by stopping, for just as we were ready to start a break in the clouds was seen, and to our delight the beautiful moon came forth and lighted our way. It was just what we had been wishing for, and from there on the gullies could be seen plainly, and groping in darkness was at an end.
Somewhere on that rour Savior joined two disciples who were on their way to Emmaus, "which was from Jerusalem about three score furlongs."
Jerusalem is surrounded by mountains; so the last few miles of our ride was up hill. The pleasure of seeing the city by moonlight was granted us, and it seemed to me the moon never did shine more brightly than on that night.
The guide said, "We are now not far from Jerusalem"; and on looking in the direction in which he pointed the dim outlines of the high walls were seen. "Is it really the walls of Jerusalem?" we asked, and no answer was needed, for shortly after the carriage stopped and all stood at the Jaffa Gate, one of the entrances to the city. The guide took us to the hotel; and a tired company of tourists we were. The ride over the mountain had chilled us to the bone, but there was no fire to greet us. The meal which had been prepared was likewise cold, and when a cup of tea was passed us it too was disappointingly cold and seemed to have been far from fire an hour or more. What a reception! Will you be surprised to know that thoughts of home and loved ones came thick and fast?
It was midnight, and when the servant took us to our room, imagine our feelings on beholding the flooring to be of stone and iron bars across the one small window. A shudder passed over us, and we thought of a prison cell. Two beds were in the room. Upon examination we found there were two linen sheets to sleep between and a very poor, thin comfort for covering. The outlook for getting warm was not very bright, and I still have recollections of shivering until almost morning.
The window I made mention of seemed entirely out of place so close to the ceiling, and it was always a wonder to me why the builders placed it so high. And then, why the iron bars? When alone in my room one day the thought struck me this way, "I'll see why the window is so high." And forthwith the wash-stand was moved under it, and in a short time after I stood upon it. Even then I came near being too low; but by standing on my tiptoes and then stretching my neck until it seemed the leaders were strained I succeeded in looking out. I did not see people passing, but instead found the window looked down upon a great pool. It was well filled with water which had run into it during the rainy season. The pool, it is thought, had been built by Hezekiah who was king of Jerusalem many, many years ago. Since the pool was all that could be seen from the window and I was not anxious to remain longer in such a strained position, I decided to go where a better view could be had of it. My curiosity had been gratified, and I never looked out of that window again. Soon after this the guide came, and we all started out to see the city.
Solomon's pools are only a few hours' ride from Jerusalem and may be seen on your way to the city of Bethlehem. They are three in number, and all of them are of great size. We learn there is one which is considered finer than the rest, and its dimensions are one hundred and ninety-four yards long, forty-nine yards wide at the top, and sixty-nine yards below, and is at places forty-eight feet deep, and hewn in the rock.
You have a very good picture of one of the pools in the engraving, and when looking at it just think that ancient Jerusalem was partly supplied with water which had been stored away in it, and that probably the gardens, the orchards, and the trees of all kinds of fruits, which Solomon speaks of having planted, were watered by them, for we read, "I made me pools of water, to water therewith the wood that bringeth forth trees."
There was so much to be seen in and around Jerusalem. We scarcely knew what place to visit first, but the guide settled the matter for us by taking the party to a Mohammedan church, the Mosque of Omar, as it is called.
I wonder how many of you know anything about Solomon. Well, I'll tell you. Solomon was the son of David, and a very wise man. "And Solomon's wisdom excelled the wisdom of all the children of the east country, and all the wisdom of Egypt, and he spake three thousand proverbs: and his songs were a thousand and five." He was such a wise man that the people and the kings went to hear him.
The Lord had said to David one time, "Thy son whom I will set upon thy throne in thy room, he shall build a house unto my name." Well, Solomon decided to build the house, and it proved to be a wonderfully fine building. Its foundation was of costly stone, and there was a great deal of brass used; and when the inside of the building was finished it was overlaid with pure gold. After the temple was finished it was dedicated to the Lord, and Solomon prayed a long, long prayer.
Well, the Lord heard the prayer of Solomon, and said, "If thou wilt walk before me, as David thy father walked, in integrity of heart, and in uprightness, to do according to all that I have commanded thee, and wilt keep my statutes and my judgments: then I will establish the throne of thy kingdom upon Israel forever. But if ye shall at all turn from following me, ye or your children, and will not keep my commandments and my statutes which I have set before you, but go and serve other gods, and worship them; then will I cut off Israel out of the land which I have given them: and this house, which I have hallowed for my name, will I cast out of my sight; and Israel shall be a proverb and a byword among all people."
Years rolled on, Solomon served the Lord faithfully; but by and by he grew weak, sinned against the Lord, and worshiped gods made by hand. He did just what the Lord forbade him to do, and the result was the utter destruction of the temple. Not one stone was left upon another; and the Mohammedan church—the Mosque of Omar—now stands on the site where once stood Solomon's Temple.
The Lord was kind to Solomon after all, for the kingdom was not taken from him, but was taken from the hand of his son. Remember that punishment is always sure to follow evil-doing.
The Mohammedans do not allow any one to go into their mosques with shoes on, so each one of the party had to remove his shoes and put on a pair of slippers. The interior of a Mohammedan mosque is considered sacred, almost too much so for the feet of Christians to press. A few years ago Christians could not gain an entrance at all, but of late they are allowed the privilege. A guide always accompanies them, however, and takes pleasure in pointing out the interesting objects which the dark, gloomy mosque contains.
There is an old tower near the Jaffa Gate called the "Tower of David," and it is supposed to be the only building standing which the Lord may have gazed upon.
The streets of Jerusalem are so narrow that carriages and wagons cannot be used. Men, camels and donkeys carry all the burdens; and it is just as necessary for pedestrians to be on their guard in that city as it was in the city of Jaffa, for camels and donkeys would just as lief walk over you, as they never turn out of the r
Here is an amusing incident which I saw while standing upon the veranda of our hotel. There was a market place just opposite the hotel, and I stood watching the people sell their cauliflower, onions and other vegetables. Purchasers were not very numerous that morning, and the sales were rather dull. One old woman was sitting near her stand of vegetables almost asleep. Far behind her was a man trying very hard to get his donkey to turn in a direction different from the one in which it persisted in going. Pounding over the head with a club seemed to make no impression upon the feelings of the animal, and the stubborn donkey budged not an inch. By and by there was a change of treatment; the little animal was taken up bodily and turned around. Immediately he started off, not caring where, and ran right over the old woman, upsetting her and scattering the vegetables all around. Oh, how surprised she looked to find herself tumbled in a heap; and when she beheld the donkey a look of, Oh, well, one need expect nothing else from you, came into her face; then quietly the scattered vegetables were picked up. The vegetables were not injured, and the only thing distressing about the whole affair was that the market woman lost her nap, for afterwards she seemed quite wide awake.
In the city of Jerusalem? Yes, and how strange! It would be impossible to try to describe our feelings, for we knew that somewhere in that vicinity holy men of old had lived and walked and preached. We were aware of the fact that the city had been destroyed many times since Christ's time, and that the streets which he was wont to walk upon were covered up with many feet of earth. Yet, notwithstanding that fact, we felt wonderfully blessed in being allowed the privilege of even being in the land where Christ and his disciples loved to dwell. Solomon reigned over Jerusalem forty years. God told Abraham to offer his only son for a burnt offering on Moriah, and there the Temple of Solomon was built. I could spend many hours writing about the patriarchs of old, but must hasten on and tell you just a little more about the city. It is surrounded by a high wall pierced with many gates. Every one who goes into or out of the city must pass through one of these gates. A few years ago every one of them was closed after sundown, but no attention is paid to locking them now, and you are allowed to go in and out any hour of the night.
Many of the stones in one portion of the wall are very, very old, and the Jews think they were used at one time in the foundation of their ancient temple, and that is as near as it is possible for them to get to the Holy of holies; so every Friday—and other days too—they gather together and weep and wail over the downfall of their beloved Zion. That place is always known as the "Jews' Wailing Place."
There is a Mohammedan cemetery outside of the city wall; the graves are about two feet high and are covered with a white coat of plaster. There are no tombstones and no names to tell the passer-by whose remains lie beneath the sod. Possibly the relatives know by the location where their dead are buried, but I'm pretty sure no one else could tell. One afternoon we had walked a long distance, and on our return to the hotel passed through the cemetery I've just told you about. We were very tired, so leaned against a tomb to rest a few minutes. Several Moslem men passed us, muttering to themselves, and looking quite savage. We asked, "What ails them?" and the reply was, "They don't want their graves desecrated by Christian dogs." That was the first time we had been likened to a dog; and, fearing the compliment might be repeated, we arose immediately and walked away. The Mohammedans' love for a Christian is not great, and it was a little uncertain how many insults they might be tempted to offer if we tarried longer.
Go with me now, my little readers, to the Garden of Gethsemane, to which place it is said Jesus often went with his disciples. We found it at the foot of the Mount of Olives, surrounded by a low stone wall. A monk acted as guide and never left our side until the gate was closed against us on our departure. The garden is well kept. Flowers here and there with nice graveled walks make the place rather inviting to visitors who usually go there soon after reaching the city. There are several old olive trees in the garden, and it is thought they are the same trees under which the blessed Master wept and prayed. When we looked at them this saying of his came to our mind, "My soul is exceeding sorrowful, even unto death; tarry ye here, and watch with me." And he went a little farther, and fell on his face, and prayed. Oh, what a sorrowful prayer, for he said, "O my Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me: nevertheless not as I will, but as thou wilt." Truly he was acquainted with grief. It is useless to attempt to tell you all of the instances connected with the scene, so we leave the garden and ascend the Mount of Olives.
Somewhere on the Mount of Olives, after his resurrection, Jesus was carried up to heaven. When David fled from Jerusalem he wept as he went up this same mount. Ezekiel tells us that "the glory of the Lord went up from the midst of the city, and stood upon the mountain which is on the east side of the city." Thus you see both the Old and the New Testament refers to Olivet; and could the stones be made to speak many a tale of sadness would be told by them.
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