Riding into Nazareth.—Virgin's Fountain.—Tricky Horses.—Cana of Galilee.—Tiberias.—Story of Jesus and his Disciples.—Boat Ride on the Sea of Galilee.—Capernaum.—Mounting Horses.—Disappearance of the Dragoman.—A Serious Accident.—Lake Huleh.—Cesarea Philippi.—Mount Hermon.—Crossing the River Pharpar.—Damascus.—Via Recta.—Bible References to Courts.—Cup of Coffee.—Water Seller.
ith the dragoman heading the company we rode into Nazareth single file just as the sun went down. He seemed delighted to be leader of such a large party of tourists, and as we marched along the people looked amazed at the turnout. Our stay at this place was longer than at any of the preceding places, for reaching there Saturday evening gave us Sunday as an extra day of rest, as on that day no traveling was done.
Our tents were pitched near the "Virgin's Fountain," which is considered one of the holy places of the city, because it is thought that Mary, the mother of Jesus, was in the habit of going there for water. We took pleasure in watching the women fill their large jars, which held perhaps three gallons of water. Mothers with tiny babies upon their arms went to the fountain, and young, laughing girls mingled with the crowd. Some of them were in a hurry, while many stopped long enough to have a pleasant chat and tell a bit of news. One would naturally suppose a jar holding three gallons of water would be a heavy burden to carry; but the women helped each other place them upon the head, after which the individual walked off unconcerned, seemingly not having a fear as to the vessel tumbling off. The bearing of water seemed to be one of the burdens placed upon the women of that country, and they bore it cheerfully. Not a man was to be seen carrying the smallest vessel. It was the custom for women to carry water in Abraham's time, for we read that when a servant was sent to seek a wife for Isaac, and a certain city was reached, "he made his camels to kneel down without the city by a well of water at the time of the evening, even the time that women go out to draw water."
The Sabbath Day Was not spent resting in our tents, for we had too strong a desire to see something of the "city of Jesus." No doubt you remember that Mary and Joseph had their home in Nazareth before going up to Bethlehem to be taxed; but the Nazareth of Joseph and Mary's time is not the Nazareth we looked upon, for since then battles have been fought there, and the city destroyed several times. It has been rebuilt, however, and each time the original site was used. The natives were bright-faced and rather neatly dressed, and the contrast between this city and others was great. We were not surprised to learn that Protestantism had a hold there, and that solved the mystery.
Nazareth is built on the side of a hill and presented quite a beautiful appearance. Upon one of the hills which surround the city is an orphanage school for girls, which, we learned, was under the care of a self-sacrificing woman. Early in life she left parents, home and friends, went to Nazareth and took charge of the little girls who lived there, teaching them the way to Christ. At first it may have seemed a thankless task, but to-day it is plainly seen that her labors were not in vain. An English society supplied her with funds. All money given for the support of such institutions in a foreign land is well spent.
There is a Protestant church in Nazareth, and we attended services there. Two ministers of the Church of England conducted the services, and the story of the Shunammite woman was read to us. The preachers belonged to our party; the congregation was made up mostly of tourists, and a small company it was.
The first thirty years of Jesus' life were spent in Nazareth; but "he did not many mighty works there, because of their unbelief." Jesus talked very plainly to the people, and they were filled with wrath and "rose up and thrust him out of the city, and led him unto the brow of the hill whereon their city was built, that they might cast him down headlong. But he, passing through the midst of them, went his way." The mount of precipitation is shown the traveler, and we tried to imagine how the people appeared when Christ deliberately walked away from them.
We spent a restful day at Nazareth, which helped us to bear the journey of the following week. Our hearts were filled with gratitude to the Lord, and on bended knees we thanked him for the great privilege of being permitted to see the city of the meek and lowly Nazarene.
One hundred and seventy-two miles had been traveled from the time we mounted our horses at Jerusalem up to the time Nazareth was reached, and every mile of the way was traveled on horseback. It is hard to tell how much suffering many of the poor horses endured, for the condition of their backs was distressing. Only two out of the eighteen were in good condition, and we two rode them. Some of the saddles fitted the horses' backs poorly, and that caused the skin to rub off, which created a large sore place. When the hostlers removed the saddles in the evening our sympathies were aroused, for never before had we seen anything to equal the raw state of those horses' backs. The men did not fancy having spectators, and their faces indicated their displeasure; but we looked anyway, and left when it suited us. The Arabs may have neglected to give the animals proper care and attention, thus helping the sore to grow larger and more inflamed. If the men had been less idle and more attentive probably the faithful animals would have been in better trim for traveling. Some of the horses were a little tricky, for they had a habit of rolling. No matter whether on a smooth ror in a mud puddle, when the desire to roll came to them down they went, and the patience of the ladies was sorely tried, for they were sure to be upon the animals' backs. The riders never thought it a funny thing for them to do, but those who looked on naturally smiled.
Sunday's rest at Nazareth was quite a benefit to us, and Monday morning we were up early, ready for the onward march.
As we rode out of camp, the Virgin's Fountain was again passed, and once more we saw the water carriers busy. Bidding adieu to Nazareth we rode up a steep hill, and looking back saw the white houses as they stood in the bright sunlight. The last look was taken, and we passed over the brow of the hill, feeling sure that the city of Jesus would be seen no more by us.
Kefr Kenna is a small village through which we passed, and where a short stop was made. For centuries it was thought to be Cana of Galilee, where, in the time of Christ, there was a marriage. You remember that Jesus, his mother and the disciples were there. "And when they wanted wine, the mother of Jesus saith unto him, They have no wine." Well, Jesus didn't seem quite ready to perform a miracle when his mother spoke to him, and his reply was, "Mine hour is not yet come." But no doubt the mother felt his hour had come, so she told the servants to do whatever Jesus instructed them to do. "Then Jesus saith unto them, Fill the water pots with water. And they filled them up to the brim." When the order to draw out the water was given, lo, there was wine, and the governor drank of it, speaking words of praise, for it was even better than the first which had been passed; so at this place Jesus began to perform miracles.
Two immense stone jars were shown us, said to be the very jars our Savior used at that marriage; but we do not vouch for the truth of the statement.
There was very little to interest us in Cana, therefore our stay was short, and we rode on toward Tiberias, reaching there in time to eat our noonday meal.
Tiberias is by the Sea of Galilee and was once the capital of Galilee; but, like other cities of Bible times, it had been destroyed. Not very many years ago the present city was partly destroyed by an earthquake, and the walls tell the story. There are hot springs at Tiberias, and it is said the water is too hot for immediate use. Many people who have rheumatism go there to bathe and be cured if possible. It is said the bath houses are filthy and abound in vermin; and, from what we saw of our boatmen, we concluded the private houses must be in as bad a condition as the bath houses.
The Sea of Galilee has another name which is, Lake of Gennesaret. On the shores of this body of water Jesus stood when the people pressed upon him, eager to hear the Word of God. And in our mind we saw the two empty ships at the time the crowd was so great Jesus decided to go aboard one of them, and asked Simon to push the boat from land. "And he sat down and taught the people out of the ship."
Fish are abundant in the lake now, just as they were in the time of Christ; for you remember Jesus said to Simon, "Launch out into the deep, and let down your nets for a draught." Simon had been out all night fishing, and had worked hard, but not a fish did he catch; and he felt there was poor pay in throwing out the nets again. So, after telling the Master of his ill luck, he said, "Nevertheless at thy word I will let down the net." And the result was "a great multitude of fishes." Then there was an accident, the net broke. "And they beckoned unto their partners, which were in the other ship, that they should come and help them. And they came and filled both the ships, so that they began to sink." The men were surprised to see so many fish, and were dreadfully alarmed, too, lest all should be lost; but "Jesus said unto Simon, Fear not; from henceforth thou shalt catch men."
The lake was liable to sudden storms, and not a ripple could be seen when boatmen started out from the shore; but soon the wind came down over the hills, and in a little while the water would be wonderfully disturbed. Just such a thing happened when Jesus asked his disciples to get in a boat and go before him to the other side of the sea. After the disciples left him "he departed into a mountain to pray." It was evening. Jesus was alone on land and the disciples were in their boats toiling away at the oars; "and about the fourth watch of the night he cometh unto them, walking upon the sea, and would have passed by them." Oh, how frightened all were, for they imagined the object to be a spirit, and it troubled them. But "immediately he talked with them, and saith unto them, Be of good cheer: it is I; be not afraid. And he went up unto them into the ship; and the wind ceased: and they were sore amazed in themselves beyond measure, and wondered." Then Peter thought he would like to try walking on the water, too. "But when he saw the wind boisterous, he was afraid; and beginning to sink, he cried, saying, Lord, save me!" Poor Peter had not faith enough to carry him through when the waves rolled around him; but "Jesus stretched forth his hand, and caught him, and said unto him, O thou of little faith, wherefore didst thou doubt?" Can you not imagine Christ standing with outstretched hands on the turbulent waters of Galilee? Then think of Peter on the verge of sinking. To-day Jesus stands ready to save all who call upon him.
Travelers usually have a strong desire to take a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee, and our company were as anxious as any who ever visited its shores. Arrangements were therefore made for a ride from Tiberias to Capernaum. Two boats, with the boatmen, were procured, and they were large enough to hold the party and rowers very nicely.
The men were strong, able-bodied fellows, and you will think so, too, when I tell you that each passenger was carried to the boats by them. You see, two of the boatmen put their hands together in such a manner as to form a seat, and we sat upon their hands as comfortably as you please, and kept from falling off by placing our arms about their necks. The water was not deep enough to reach our feet, so we got along very well. You may imagine the sight to have been amusing, for over half of the number weighed one hundred and seventy-five pounds apiece, and one old man almost tipped the scales at three hundred. The boatmen, no doubt, were anxious to place such burdens in the boat. The strong odor of fish was rather unpleasant, and it seemed best to close the eyes and thereby shut away the filthy condition of boat and men. The day was beautiful and the lake very smooth. The wind sometimes comes down over the hills, and as of old the result is a restless, uneasy sea. We were glad the water was not troubled that day.
The sun shone very hot, and when it struck the water its rays caused our eyes to smart. At the end of three hours Tell Hum was before us. After landing we walked up a hill through a rank growth of weeds higher than our heads, and there looked upon what is thought to be Capernaum, one of the chief cities of Palestine in Christ's time, where much of his time was spent in healing the sick and teaching the people. Jesus upbraided many cities for their neglect of duty, and Capernaum was among the number. Now read his warning words, "And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto heaven, shalt be brought down to hell: for if the mighty works, which have been done in thee, had been done in Sodom, it would have remained until this day. But I say unto you, That it shall be more tolerable for the land of Sodom in the day of judgment, than for thee."
The prophecy was fulfilled and all houses and churches were leveled to the ground. The hot sun shining upon the rank growth of weeds proved to be extremely disagreeable to us, therefore we shortened our stay. Entering the boats again, we were rowed to camp.
The tents were pitched near Magdala, about three miles from Tiberias, and our stopping place that night was only a few feet from the water, a beautiful looking place, but an extremely damp one. The gentlemen of the party took a good bath in the Sea of Galilee and pronounced it quite refreshing; the ladies were denied that privilege, for bathing dresses were too far away; so we missed that pleasure.
We retired rather late that night, but were quite willing to arise early the next morning, and by seven o'clock were in the saddle. Horseback riding was not so fatiguing now, and there really seemed to be a little pleasure in traveling over hill and plain.
I have told you about riding horseback, but you may not know how we mounted our horses. If plenty of rocks were to be found at the different stopping places mounting a horse was not so very hard; but many times the rocks were so small it would have taken hours and hours to throw them together to make a pile large enough for us to stand upon. No chairs, no rocks to stand on; then how did we mount? Well, the dragoman held out his hand and we put our foot upon it; then, after having placed one of our hands upon the horn of the saddle, we prepared to jump. Mr. Heilpin always said, "Ready? Now, one, two, three;" and by the time he had said three we were usually up in the saddle. But sometimes "three" was said, when no attempt had been made to jump; then one, two, three was repeated. Often our calculations and his counting failed to come out right; for we had forgotten to spring. Mounting the horses was real amusing, but awfully trying. Practice makes perfect, it has been said, and after a few lessons every one of the women was more active, and we mounted in a hurry.
While riding along one day we all lost sight of our dragoman, and it seemed quite strange to be without him. Yosef undertook to be our pilot, but as he became confused we concluded he answered the purpose but poorly; and the outlook to gain camp seemed rather uncertain. One of the party rode ahead and called out, "I'll take you through; follow me." We decided it was too much like the blind leading the blind, but just at that time the dragoman put in an appearance and we followed him. After riding a long distance a good resting place was found near a beautiful fountain. Each person used his own pleasure as to how the time should be spent. Some wrote letters and others took a nap. My time was spent in admiring the surroundings and reading a little. Every one seemed to enjoy the rest immensely, and when the call to leave was given we were loath to quit the spot.
Serious accidents sometimes happen to tourists, and I shall have to tell you of one which happened to one of our number. Just before the second call was given one of the ladies desired a switch, and as she stepped down to the place where they could be found her knee twisted and the bone snapped. Being near enough to hear it, I immediately went to her asking the question, "Are you hurt?" and the reply was, "Call the doctors;" which I did; and when the examination was made a serious break was announced. The doctors belonged to our party, but their medicines and instruments were at home. Servants were sent to camp in a gallop for bedstead, mattress and a board. The gentlemen made splints and gave their large white silk handkerchiefs for bandages. The bone was set and six men carried her to camp, and it was nine o'clock by the time we reached there.
The lady was of a very cheerful disposition, and therefore bore this misfortune uncomplainingly. I shall never forget that time, as a great gloom was cast over the company, and it seemed as though death had come into our midst.
Our camping place for that night was Ein-Baluka, and it seemed to be in the neighborhood of Bedouin Arabs, which fact was not pleasant to think of; but we got along all right and the watchful eye of the Lord was over us there, as well as at every other camping place. There was no other way for the lady to travel but by horseback, so a mattress was fastened upon the animal's back and Miss W. placed upon it, being tied there with sheets.
It looked very odd to see her riding backward, but there was no other way, for the broken limb had to be kept perfectly straight, as the least bit of a bend made it very painful. Her horse did not go out of a walk, yet there was a motion which caused the limb to roll. It was necessary to remedy that before going very far, and the lady said laughingly, "I'll fix something to hold it still," and forthwith a shawl-strap was brought forth. One end was placed about the afflicted limb, and the other end of the strap was held in her hand. That proved to be just the thing and saved much pain, because the foot was kept in its place.
Four days she was carried over the rough r, crossing over Mount Hermon and the river Pharpar. A watchful eye was kept over the patient sufferer all of the way, and Arab men walked by her side to help when needed. In our line of march the company was headed by the dragoman, then Miss W. and the rest of us coming after, all riding single file.
One day a great marshy place was crossed, and as misfortunes don't come singly, it happened that Miss W.'s horse had to stick in the mud. Some of the gentlemen, with the help of an Arab, lifted the cripple from the horse and placed her upon the ground; after which the servants worked faithfully to extricate the animal. Considerable time was lost, but finally he was set free and we once more moved on.
Often such accidents happen when horses and donkeys are disabled; and as the owners of them can not take the animals over the mountain or remain to feed them the poor things must be left to suffer and finally die of starvation. My heart was made to ache for the animals which we saw by the ride, unable to walk and left to die.
There were no more mishaps after this, and the crippled member was never heard to utter a complaint, and was the most cheerful one of the party. She was aware of the fact that the fracture would leave its results for life, but notwithstanding she was cheerful. If the lady could speak to you she would tell you her trust was in the One who watches over all of his children, for Miss W. was a Christian. When at home this lady was a diligent worker in the Sunday school, and all along the journey she paid great attention to the noted Bible places, for, said she, "I shall tell it all to my class when I get home."
Children, did you ever think how much hard work your Sunday-school teachers do, that they may be able to show you the way to Christ? They are concerned about your soul's salvation, and many, many hours are anxiously spent in thinking and studying the best plan to present the Word of God to you Sunday after Sunday. Oh do not pass the truths by thoughtlessly, for remember that your reward in the end will be meted out according to the opportunity you had of learning the right.
We are getting on toward the end of our journey, and this time we find the tents pitched at Lake Huleh, better known, perhaps, as the "Waters of Merom."
During the day Bedouin Arab camps were passed, and we saw their tents, which were made of goats' hair closely woven together, making them water-tight. Plenty of fish are found in the waters of Lake Huleh, and Bedouin Arabs go there to fish and hunt. These people are of a roving nature, therefore remain but a short time at one place. Their families go with them, of course, and that means the donkeys, camels, sheep and goats. As long as pasture is green, they stay at one place, only moving when pasture becomes scarce.
I wonder how many of you ever saw a buffalo. Well, we saw a few of them on the low ground at the head of the lake. They were very small compared with those of the western plains of this country; they seemed to be gentle and were not disturbed at all by our company passing by.
The next camping place was at the base of Mount Hermon, whose top was capped with snow. Not far from the tents springs of water gushed out from beneath the rocks. Just beyond the springs was a large cave, where people went to worship a god called "Pan."
The country through which we traveled that day was beautiful. Plenty of green grass was to be seen, and olive groves were all around us. We crossed an old Roman bridge, and found our canvas homes in an olive grove which had a stream of clear mountain water flowing through it.
The situation of Banias was beautiful on the side of the mountain, with ravines and sparkling streams of water about it. Only a few houses were in the village, and not much of interest was to be seen there; but wherever we went while passing through Palestine Jesus and his disciples were brought plainly to our minds, and is it any wonder that our faith in the Bible grew stronger? I think not.
Banias, or Cesarea Philippi, is thought to be the scene of Christ's transfiguration, the place where his outward form was changed; for we read of his face shining as the sun and of his raiment being white as the light. Christ's presence was felt in Cesarea Philippi, for we read again that when he came into the coasts he asked his disciples these questions: "Whom do men say that I, the Son of man, am?" When they answered him, "he saith unto them, But whom say ye that I am? And Simon Peter answered and said, Thou art the Christ, the Son of the living God." No human being had made such a revelation to Simon Peter, but the "Father which is in heaven."
On the top of a hill near our camping place were seen the ruins of an old castle. Some of the party, accompanied by a guide, went up the hill to see them, and those of us who were left behind went to our tents and spent that time resting.
The men did not reach camp till late in the evening, and some of us feared an accident had happened, or the pathway to camp had been lost; but mealtime brought every one around the board, happy and in good spirits.
Bedtime came later that night than usual because of the delay, so we were the losers, for next morning we were not allowed to sleep any later than usual.
At this point our journey in Palestine ends, and now we enter Syria.
From Cesarea Philippi we rode up the side of Mount Hermon, said to be the highest mountain in Syria. On the top of it snow and ice are found the year round. In Bible times this mountain was sometimes called Sion, also Serion. It has several peaks, and upon one of them are to be found the ruins of a temple supposed to have been erected there years and years ago for the worship of Baal. Now Baal was an idol; so temples and altars erected for the worship of that god were usually built upon high places. We read that Josiah beat down the altars which had been erected "on top of the upper chambers of Ahaz." The Israelites were instructed to "utterly destroy all the places wherein the nations which ye shall possess served their gods, upon the high mountains, and upon the hills." The worship of Baal in those times was so great that human beings—sons of families—were offered as burnt offerings to him. No wonder instructions were given to "utterly destroy all the places."
We did not ride to the top of Mount Hermon, because it was not necessary; but a ridge to the right of it was crossed, and we found the way steep and wonderfully rough. Never before had we gone over such r, and there was considerable danger connected with the trip. The Lord took care of us, as usual, and we came out all right.
Lunch was eaten that day near a Druse village. They are a people who greatly detest Christians, so we were very careful not to give occasion for offense. Our stop there was not any more agreeable to us than it seemed to be to them, so we were quite willing to ride on as soon as possible after luncheon.
In the afternoon we crossed the swiftly flowing river Pharpar. A number of Arab men, who were almost naked, led our horses through the rushing, dashing water, and it took but a little while for us to find that each man knew his business well. The water was quite deep, almost up to our feet, and the current was so swift it seemed the horses would surely go down stream instead of right across. We realized how necessary it was to have our horses led by men who not only knew the fording place, but who were strong and able to manage horses when in water. Those Arabs assisted both men and women to cross over, and indeed not any one of the party could have crossed without help.
That night our camping place was close to the river and very near to a mountain village. We were now well on our way to Damascus. We found the rlong and the ride extremely wearisome, with nothing special to attract our attention.
When the caravan rleading from Damascus to Egypt was gained, we were reminded of Saul and what befell him on his way to the same city. You remember how cruelly he had been acting, how he had put Christian men and women in prison, and then how he stood by and saw Stephen stoned? Well, the Lord knew how to stop Saul in his cruel work, for before the city was gained, and somewhere on the rI've been telling you about, we read that "suddenly there shined round about him a light from heaven: and he fell to the earth, and heard a voice saying unto him, Saul, Saul, why persecutest thou me?" And then for three days this man was blind, and those who were with him led him to the city. Instead of persecuting the Christians, as heretofore, Saul preached Christ; after which his life was in peril, for the Jews decided to kill him.
The exact spot where this great man was stricken down is not known, but we do know he journeyed on the rwhich led to Damascus.
A large caravan of camels, on the way to Egypt, stopped to rest and feed close to where we were lunching. Such sights were quite common to us, and but little attention was paid to them. They journeyed on toward Egypt, and we moved on toward Damascus. When within a few miles of the city we halted, and camped there for the night.
The next morning every one in the party was anxious to leave camp early, but the dragoman seemed unusually anxious to take his time; so we were compelled to exercise patience. In very good time, however, we started on the way, and after getting a short distance from camp a view of the old city burst suddenly upon us. There were the domes and minarets pointing heavenward; and as we drew nearer and nearer to the city the groves, gardens and winding streams were seen. Truly the sight was a very beautiful one, and no doubt the ride across the desert plains helped us to enjoy the scene to its fullest extent. The dragoman was anxious to make as good an appearance going into the city as possible, so he rode on before and we all followed after. Finally the hotel was reached, and with joy each one dismounted, giving the horses over to the care of the men who were there waiting. That night we slept under a roof instead of under canvas, and it was the first time since leaving Jerusalem. I am not sure we slept any more soundly there than in our tents, but there was such a satisfaction in knowing that the roof which covered us was more than canvas, and that thieves could enter only at the door. For a night or two our shoes were left upon the floor instead of being placed under the pillow, and how pleasant it was to know the baggage was safe without being tied to the bedstead!
Perhaps you wonder what became of the afflicted one of the party. Well, she was taken right along with us to Damascus, and when it came time for us to leave the city both she and her friend remained behind, while we journeyed on and on.
There was great pleasure in being in comfortable, home-like quarters, and the drawing room was quite a lively place for a while. Our clothes looked the worse for wear, and they were exchanged for those which were not soiled and travel-stained. It was surprising to see what a change had been brought about in the appearance of each one, not only in dress but in looks, for everybody seemed bright and cheerful.
Miss W. was compelled to eat all of her meals in her own room, since she was unable to go from place to place. We did not forget the invalid, or neglect her either, and at such times as were convenient we gathered in her room. At the expiration of three days we journeyed on through Syria toward the seaport town of Beyrut, each night camping by the way.
Damascus is said to be the oldest city of the world. Way back in Abraham's time mention was made of it as being the home of Eliezer, his steward. A number of times Damascus is spoken of in the Bible, and we believe it was as flourishing a city then as it is these years.
The rivers Pharpar and Abana supply Damascus with water, and great canals convey it far and wide over the surrounding country. No doubt you have read about these two rivers in connection with the Bible story of Naaman the leper. He knew the rivers were beautifully clear, and his preference was to wash in them rather than in the water the prophet directed him to wash in for the cleansing of the leprosy.
There is a street in Damascus which is called Via Recta. It runs from the east to the west gate. We were told it was "the street called Straight." In Bible times the Lord directed Ananias in a vision to go into that street and make inquiry for Saul of Tarsus. Ananias was timid about going; Saul's reputation was not good, for it was known far and wide how he had been treating all who called upon the name of the Lord. But the timid feelings were cast aside and the desire of the Lord followed out. Saul was found and the message was delivered, and after Saul's sight had been restored he "arose and was baptized." After his conversion Saul "preached Christ in the synagogues." The Jews opposed him and watched day and night to take his life; "but Saul increased the more in strength, and confounded the Jews which dwelt at Damascus, proving that this is very Christ." When the danger of being killed was greatest, "then the disciples took him by night, and let him down by the wall in a basket," and by that means Saul's life was spared a while longer to preach boldly for Jesus.
A window was shown us, said to be the window from which Saul was let down on that memorable night. The houses of Ananias and Naaman were also shown, but we shall never know whether they were really the houses in which those Bible characters lived. Naaman's house had been turned into a hospital, and we hope many sufferers have been made well inside of its walls.
There were no beautiful residences to admire while passing along, and you can scarcely imagine how strange it seemed to look at high blank walls.
In the far East houses are built with a court—an enclosed space—and on all sides of it are doors which lead into different rooms. Our hotel had an upper story, and the stairway which led to it opened on one corner of the court.
Every one going into a house must first pass through a gate in the high wall. There are a great many references in the Bible to the courts of houses, and you know king Ahasuerus made a feast in a court. It was customary for the door of a court to be locked, and consequently a servant attended to the opening of it. You remember when Peter was placed in prison by Herod and guarded by four soldiers he was released from his chains and set at liberty by the angel of the Lord? Well, Peter came "to the house of Mary the mother of John, whose surname was Mark," and "knocked at the door of the gate, and a damsel came to hearken." These instances show that the custom of having houses with courts to-day is the custom of centuries ago.
The bazaars of Damascus are very highly spoken of all over the world, and every traveler is anxious to visit them soon after reaching the city. We found the bazaars to be shops like open stalls, in avenues roofed over. When a customer purchases goods he walks up to the stall and is waited upon by the merchant, who is usually sitting down cross-legged. The purchaser stands on the street, which is very narrow, and the throng of buyers and wayfarers have a good chance to jostle him about unpleasantly. Merchants make much ado in selling their goods, for they talk furiously. To me it seemed a fight was brewing; but by and by the sale was completed and quiet reigned until another purchaser happened along. We wanted to purchase a few silk handkerchiefs, and before an attempt at a sale was made we were furnished with a cup of coffee each; after which an effort was made to sell the articles. Sales are not always made, for the buyer is not always pleased with the goods.
You may wonder how large the cups were, so I'll just tell you they held perhaps two tablespoonfuls of coffee ready to drink. That may seem like a very little bit, but it was quite enough, for we had to get rid of grounds too. In that country coffee is pounded in a mortar, making the grain as fine as powder. After having been boiled the mixture is sweetened, and then you get rid of it as best you can. A very strange custom you will think, but in time one becomes used to it.
While walking along we noticed some of the bazaars were without salesmen, and upon inquiry found the men had gone to the mosque for prayers. No matter when the hour of prayer came, business was cast aside, and away they went. Could not many Christians learn a lesson from the Mohammedans to-day? Surely they could.
The rattle of wagons is not heard in those roofed streets, but donkeys and camels quietly make their way through the crowd, not caring whether a person is stepped upon or not.
A missionary to the Jews, from London, England, made the acquaintance of our party, and through his kindness we were permitted to visit some of the best private houses in the city. Space will not allow me to tell you what was seen there, but before leaving the city of Damascus I want to tell you about the man who is in the picture. He is a water seller who goes along the streets selling water to those who desire a drink. Do you see the cup in his outstretched hand? And there upon his back is the leather bottle which holds the water. When walking along he calls out in loud tones, "Let him that is athirst come and drink;" and then comes a great noise from the knocking together of the tin cups. I do not know whether the man sells much water or not, for we did not stand still long enough for us to watch him.
Many years ago a great many Christians lived in Damascus, but the Moslems burned a portion of the city in which they lived, and thousands were put to death. The Christian population is now on the increase, and there is safety on the streets of Damascus for all Christian people. Missionaries have worked faithfully, scattering the good seed there. May the old and young alike pray the Lord to bless all efforts for good; and, little children, may the Lord help you all to get the missionary spirit, so that some day you may go forth and battle for the right.
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